Choosing RV Cooling Units

If you’re looking to upgrade or replace the air conditioning unit in your RV, there are several things to consider. First, you’ll need to decide between a ducted or non-ducted system. Ducted systems are more common on Class A motorhomes and high-end fifth wheels, as they can distribute cool air throughout the entire rig. They’re more expensive, however, so you’ll want to weigh the pros and cons of each type before making a decision.

You’ll also need to determine what size air conditioner you need. This is usually based on your rig’s cooling capacity and the amount of space you want to cool. You’ll want to look for a unit that has a reasonable output (measured in BTUs) and that will work well with your specific electrical and physical setup.

One thing that’s important to remember is that any RV cooling unit, no matter how good, will take a while to fully cool a room. This is because the air needs to be blown over cold coils to get cooled, and the cooling process takes time. You can help speed up the cooling process by limiting sun exposure in your RV. You can do this by awning your rig or parking it in the shade as much as possible.

A ductless RV air conditioning system is the more affordable choice, but it won’t provide as much cool air as a ducted system. The air is delivered through vents that are strategically located around the RV, rather than being delivered through a single vent in the roof like a ducted system. Depending on the brand, a non-ducted RV air conditioning unit may also include a heat strip that allows you to use it in warmer climates or seasons.

An absorption RV fridge is more expensive than a residential refrigerator, but it’s the most energy-efficient option for RVers. It uses less electricity than a compressor fridge, and it can run on either AC or DC power. RVers often choose this fridge for its ability to cool down quickly and its versatility on the road.

Another downside of an absorption refrigerator is that it can’t be used at a campground without level concrete pads. This can be a problem for RVers who like to camp at state parks or go boondocking.

If you’re looking for a cheaper RV refrigerator, a residential 120-volt fridge is an option. However, keep in mind that it’s not designed for the bouncing and shaking of an RV on the road. This can cause the refrigerator to overwork and shorten its life. It’s also not as efficient on battery power, so you’ll need to use an inverter when camping off-grid. rv cooling units